June 19, 2016 at 11:55 pm #26935
This may have been ask before but I couldn’t find the answer. Anyway has anyone used a glue like Titebond to glue felt ? If so do you have any tips ? warnings ? Are there any good reasons not to use Titebond ? ThanksJune 20, 2016 at 1:34 am #32312
The biggest reason to NOT use Titebond is that it is a wood glue and would make the felt very difficult to remove in the future. I’ve used various adhesives, but nothing works as well as animal hide glue. It may take some getting used to and requires prior planning, but the felt goes in smoothly and can be removed with hot water in the future.
I would definitely advise against using anything else. Check these out:June 20, 2016 at 7:34 pm #32313
Thank you Terry, that is the information that I needed. No need to try and reinvent the wheel. I just need to learn something new. Thanks for the video too.June 21, 2016 at 1:45 am #32314
Glad I could help. Please don’t be afraid to ask.July 31, 2016 at 9:35 pm #32362
I am sure this has been discussed before but I would like to just say that a rotary cutter is the ONLY way to cut felt ! I can’t believe that I ever tried cutting it in any other fashion. I’m finally getting to the point of cutting new felt for the Star chest I have been working on.August 1, 2016 at 9:41 pm #32363
I use a framing square and a razor knife on the big pieces, but use a Carl Rotary Cutter for the smaller drawers and for squaring up larger pieces. You’re right, a rotary cutter does a great job. Nice clean cut!August 8, 2016 at 6:48 pm #32370den052Member
A rotary cutter is so easy and smooth……plus get yourself a cutting board/sheet that they use rotary cutters with. The board has measuring squares and scales to measure perfectly without a square.August 8, 2016 at 8:23 pm #32371
I have the “self healing” cutting board that is made to use with the rotary cutter. You are correct, the mat makes it clean and simple.February 12, 2017 at 12:54 am #32856professor-druMember
on the subject of felt adhesive..
I restore old cars and have various degrees of spray adhesive, available…
some are permanent, some just remain tacky,
I watched Terry Videos and Gerstners, on the hide glue,
seam to me the lighter grade spray adhesive would be much simpler,
once fabric is cut, simply spray the back side, place and smooth,
fabric can be removed, without much resistance, yet remains stable, until removed..
and if replacing fabric, sometimes the old adhesive is enough,
it doesn’t required renewed application, of adhesive,
even then I just light coat, the new fabric
I’ve used it on various fabrics, headliners, speaker covers etc
it doesn’t bleed through or stain the fabric,
and the adhesive can be easily removed, by light chemical cleaners,
don’t confuse this with exterior trim adhesive, that takes a heat gun and force to release..
just presenting as possible option,
will gladly concede, to someone more experienced..
peace and blessing
AndrewFebruary 12, 2017 at 4:46 pm #32861scott-campbellMember
Most of the spray adhesives I have tried, are way too tacky and aggressive, when it comes to removal. What kind of spray adhesive do you use on headliners and speaker covers?February 14, 2017 at 3:12 am #32871billMember
Titebond has Hide Glue. Looks like, smells like, and acts like the hide glue you cook in a pot. I am a dud when it came to making hide glue in the pot. I tried Titebond’s hide glue and haven’t found any difference. I’ve been using it to do re-glues on chest repairs and I also use it to install felt.February 14, 2017 at 11:45 am #32873
Another factor to consider is that many of today’s buyers are well informed. They may demand that the chests be restored in an original manner. I know others on this forum who have had buyers insist on the use of hide glue for felting.
In my experience of restoring literally scores of chests, I have found that using hot hide glue is the easier, softer way. Yes, it takes a bit of prep and planning, but I can felt a chest in about ten minutes, once the felt is cut to size. I use a mini crockpot to bring the glue to temperature and to keep it warm in a quart freezer bag. I slip the bag into a plastic container, fold the top down around the outside, and I’m ready to brush on the hide glue. I’ve tried the Titebond product, but found it terribly expensive in the quantity I use and hard to apply with the required coverage. .
I believe I detailed my procedure elsewhere on the forum, but if anyone has any questions, I’d be glad to answer them.
Of course, this is just what works for me. Everyone has their own preference and procedures.August 26, 2017 at 10:27 am #33614
When all the felt is cut, or while it is being cut, I fire up the small crock pot I have for gluing purpose. I fill it with hot water and let it heat up to between 145 degrees to 165 degrees. I mix granulated hide glue and hot water in a one quart plastic zip top bag. The ration of glue to water is something I learned with practice and adjust to my liking. I seal up the bag and dunk it into the hot water, trapping the top of the bag with the lid of the crock pot. I check the temperature with a digital thermometer until it is in the range I want.
I buy 1” chip brushes in bulk to use for stripping and gluing purposes. They are cheap and disposable. http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-1-in-industrial-grade-chip-brushes-61491.html When the glue is all dissolved and at the proper temperature, I remove the bag and put it into a 12 ounce plastic container and fold the top back over the edge of the cup. I use a graduated plastic cup used for measuring urethane plastic components, but a small sour cream container will work as well. I dip the brush into the glue and apply it to each corner of the drawer first, then cover the bottom of the drawer with glue. It should go on freely and not drag. I place the felt for that drawer in place and smooth it down with a plastic putty knife, making sure it sticks on each edge and corner. I keep it up until it’s obvious that the felt is stuck and them set it aside and do the rest of the drawers.
The top till and the chest top are next. I had cut felt to fit each one, but I need to clip the corners off the piece that goes in the bottom of the top till to allow for the little braces in the corners. The top piece is not trimmed, but goes into each corner. I start with the bottom of the top till and apply glue not only to the bottom of the till, but to the sides as well. Working quickly, I set the felt in place on the bottom and then cover the sides with the felt strips I cut. I cut them to length and smooth them down until they set up. I repeat the process for the top lid.
I hope that helps. If anyone wants to come to my shop for a demonstration, feel free to come on down to the Sunshine State!August 26, 2017 at 9:46 pm #33617bcmachinist-d72Member
Solid info. This is why I come here.May 14, 2018 at 11:06 pm #33996mdomzalskiMember
I just finished re-felting my 5th 52… On the last two I ironed the felt after cutting and waiting for the crockpot. I use Old Brown Glue (slightly adulterated hide glue) which works very well at ~125degF. Since I have a fridge in Garagemahal for storage/life extension, it works well for me. I bought a very inexpensive travel clothes iron that I keep for veneers, hot glue edging, and ironing felt. Once you have ironed the felt before gluing, I’d be surprised if you didn’t always iron the felt. Its flat, so no fighting a curl, the little ridges from the tight curl at the end of the roll, are never a problem, and just before gluing, you can easily swap felt into other drawers to optimize felt fit to the drawers. Just my $0.02…
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